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Salmon in Parchment

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By Cynthia Fueredi

For the last couple of years, in late spring, I host a welcome home luncheon for my snow bird lady friends. You know who I mean, those gals who are fortunate enough to get out of Dodge for the long, lonely winter.

They’re scattered around the warm sunny spots of the country — Palm Desert, Scottsdale, and the Florida coasts. I think they look forward to my lunch, as it’s a little reunion of sorts. They show up all suntanned with improved golf handicaps and amusing stories to share about their winter away from the chills of Lake Geneva. Am I envious? You’re damn right I am, but I’m glad they’re back!

We always start out with champagne, and I usually have some light appetizers. Nothing really exotic, maybe some nuts, olives, and grilled asparagus wrapped in prosciutto. I don’t want to miss out on any stories, so I’m well organized with my table set and everything that can be done in advance is in place.

Here is this year’s menu.

-- Salad of Spring Greens with Balsamic Vinaigrette

-- Salmon with Vegetables Baked in Parchment

-- Rhubarb Raspberry Crisp

I’m going to teach you something new this time. We are going to cook the fish in parchment paper. Now don’t go turning the page, just stick with me here. It’s easy, healthy, and makes a fabulous presentation. (Remember, I told you, you eat with your eyes first.)

OK, back to the parchment. The French call it cooking en papillote (in pah-pee-YOHT), or in parchment paper. This cooking method actually involves wrapping a piece of food, typically fish or chicken with vegetables, in parchment paper. It’s then baked in the oven until the parchment puffs up and the food is cooked through.

The paper is impregnated with silicone, which prevents it from catching fire. It’s a heavier, grease- and moister-resistant paper with a number of culinary uses. Due to its non-stick quality, it’s perfect for lining baking pans. It comes in rolls and is available in the supermarket and gourmet stores right next to the foil and wax paper.

It’s easy to do and looks very impressive at the table when everyone cuts open their own packet for the big reveal. Once you master the “crimping,” — that is the small folds you’ll make to perfectly seal the food in each packet — you’re ready to go!

SALMON IN PARCHMENT

4 sheets parchment paper 16 inches long

4 salmon fillets, trimmed and skinned, 6 to 8 ounces each

3 shallots, peeled and sliced very thin

8 small red potatoes sliced thin, end pieces discarded

1 lemon, sliced thin

24 pitted nicoise or kalamata olives

4 teaspoons of fresh dill

Olive oil

Dry vermouth

Salt and freshly ground pepper

5 tablespoons melted butter

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Fold each piece of parchment in half like a book. Take a pencil and draw a half heart shape. Cut along your drawing and open paper to create a whole heart. The heart shape should be about 3 inches larger than your fish.

Place your fish near the fold. Top each piece of fish with a large pinch of the shallots. Place 3 or 4 slices of potato along the side of fish, just tucked under a bit. Place a lemon slice on top and add 6 of the olives to each packet. Top with a good drizzle of olive oil and a teaspoon of the vermouth. Season with the salt and pepper and top with the dill sprigs.

Brush the edges of the heart shape with melted butter. Fold the left side of the heart over to cover the fish so the edges meet and stick together. Starting at the top, or the curve of the heart, make small overlapping folds. Use your pointer finger to hold the paper down and your other pointer to make the small fold. Be sure each fold overlaps the one before it so there are no gaps. Repeat with the rest of the packets. Brush the top of each packet with melted butter.

Put packets on a baking sheet and bake until paper is puffed up and brown, about 20 minutes. There is no peeking to check for doneness.

To serve, place a packet on each plate and bring to the table. (They will deflate if you’re slow.) Each guest will open her packet to a wonderful, perfectly steamed pouch of a healthy surprise. Make a toast to friendship with a chilled sauvignon blanc and enjoy your afternoon.